Do double needle work on any sewing machine? Twin needles, also known as double needles, remain one of the most disused accessories amongst the sewing industry’s professionals and DIYers. The fear of changing the needle and using the double needle explains why many avoid this amazing accessory. It comes with so much versatility.
You can only use a double needle on sewing machines that can sew both zig-zag and straight stitches. If a sewing machine sews only straight stitches, then it must have a foot with a wide enough opening; otherwise, you cannot use a double needle.
Double needles are 2 needles joined with one shank at the top. As long as you are confident about your sewing knits and have a record of great results, this needle will open your world to a whole new dimension. Other uses of this needle include pin tucking plus other decorative roles in woven fabrics.
If you have taken a keen look at most of the t-shirts you have worn over the years; you might have noticed 2 neat, parallel rows of stitching on the sleeves and bottom hem. If you have never thought of checking that, please do now.
As much as these stitches on your t-shirts are done using a commercial cover stitch machine, using a double needle and your regular sewing machine can give you nearly identical stitches!
How to Sew With a Double Needle
A double needle (also a twin needle) is an amazing tool for sewing knit garments. You can use it for pant leg hem, top, sleeves, and making of skirts.
The double-needle stitch is much more flexible than a regular straight stitch. Therefore, it means no popped threads when you unintentionally stretch the hem too much.
In most cases, this tool is for hems, not for sewing the seams. Below are some important tips for sewing stretch fabrics (seams included).
I will guide you through the sewing steps using a double needle and any other sewing machine that can make zig-zag stitches.
Steps to Sewing a Professional Double-Needle Hem
If you serge the edge first, you’ll end up with a finished hem that is very similar to a cover stitch hem. However, serging might not even be necessary, considering that knit fabrics wear out on the edge.
- Step One: Prepare Your Edge
If you like, you can serge the bottom and press the hem as you wish.
- Step Two: Prepare Your Sewing Machine
In this step, you should have two spools of thread plus two spool holders. If your sewing machine does not have two spool holders, you can tape a straw vertically next to the first spool holder; this helps you create a temporary one. Alternatively, a free-standing thread holder could be of great use.
Install a twin needle in your sewing machine. Thread the machine, as usual, using the first spool of thread and insert it into the needle on the right.
After inserting the first spool, thread the second spool like you did in the first case. Insert the second thread into the needle on the left.
- Step Three: Test Your Stitches on a Scrap of Fabric
Go for a straight stitch. I prefer lengthening my stitch to 3 for knit fabrics. Backstitching is okay if it is with a twin needle. You must not necessarily stretch your fabric as you go.
- Step Four: Sew Your Double Needle Hem
At this point, you need only press the hem on the fabric and sew it strategically.
What Sizes Do Double Needles Come In?
The twin needles are measured using two numbers. The first number represents the distance between the two needles measured in metrics like 2.0mm, 2.5mm, 3.0mm, 4.0mm, etc.
The second number represents the size of both the needles, such as size 80, etc. So, if placed together in a package, you’ll have a reading like 2.0/80. You interpret such a reading as 2 millimeters wide, with each needle’s size being 80.
Types of Twin Needle
Twin needles or double needles are compatible with most brands of sewing machines and come with two needles attached to one shank. It’s likely you will get only one twin needle in a package, so you need to make your choice wisely and treat it well.
Here are the popular types of twin needles that you’ll likely interact with during your sewing projects:
- Stretch Twin Needle
This type of twin needle has a smaller rounded tip. It is recommended for highly elastic fabrics such as scuba and spandex.
- Ballpoint Twin Needle
It’s the best twin needle for all the other knit fabrics.
- Universal Twin Needle
Universal twin needles are general-purpose needles. They are the most common ones used in weaving fabrics and other forms of knits.
These needles bear a slightly rounded tip that allows them to slip through the weave of knits with ease while remaining sharp enough to handle the woven fabrics.
- Embroidery Twin Needle
You can tell an embroidery twin needle by its enlarged groove and eye, such features make them perfect for making decorative stitches.
Unlike regular sewing, material embroidery usually happens at a higher speed. This sewing accessory has a coating with larger eyes, which allows for a smooth thread flow at higher speeds. You can use this type of twin needles with different embroidery threads—cotton, rayon, polyester, etc.
- Double Hemstitch Twin Needle
It’s a Schmetz product. Usually, one is a wing needle, while the other is a regular needle on a crossbar from one shaft. This needle type is largely used for decorative stitching on tightly woven fabrics.
- Denim Twin Needle
If you compare this twin needle for denim with a double universal needle, you will realize that the former has a sharp, strong point that penetrates dense fabrics with ease.
Its sharp tip can penetrate virtually any type and multiple layers of thick material at a faster speed. Additionally, the twin needle for the jeans must be 100 size. This needle size is sharp and thick enough to stitch denim fabric easily. It is also great for topstitching woven fabrics.
Note
Among other things that you need to know about a twin needle is the width. The width of a twin needle refers to the spacing of your two needles and stitches.
It’s hard to find a twin needle that is too wide to fit past the sewing plate. However, it does happen and depends on the type of your sewing machine and the presser foot.
Conclusion: Do Double Needle Work on Any Sewing Machine?
If you are a professional or DIY sewer, you know the double needle has many uses. Depending on the project at hand, it is one of the most important accessories for your sewing machine.
The answer is yes, especially if your sewing machine can sew zigzag and straight stitches. You cannot use a double needle if your sewing machine sews only straight stitches.
So, if you intend to use this needle at some point in your sewing projects, ensure that you have the right sewing machine to handle this needle type.
I hope you found this article helpful for your different sewing projects, especially regarding the use of double needles. If you have a question, a concern, or suggestion, don’t hesitate to share it with me in the comments section below.