Knowing how to sew an invisible zipper with a regular zipper foot is important in sewing because zipper foot is one of several specialized presser feet; it is used to insert zippers in garments, cushions, bags, purses, etc.
There are 3 main types of zipper feet: the adjustable zipper foot, the regular zipper foot, and the invisible zipper foot. The regular zipper foot is the most common of the three, so much so that most machines come with it.
In that regard, you may find yourself in a situation where you want to sew in an invisible zipper, yet you only have a regular zipper at hand. So, how do you go about it?
In this article, I’ll help you maneuver the above-mentioned course in the simplest yet articulate method. I’ll begin by giving a more detailed definition of an invisible zipper, then proceed to the specifics of sewing an invisible zipper using a regular zipper foot.
Read the following carefully so you can benefit fully and get splendid results from your project:
What Is an Invisible Zipper?
An invisible zipper, so aptly named, is a zipper that is sewn into a garment in such a way that it stays hidden under the seams. The only visible aspect of an invisible zipper is its tiny zipper pull; this is relatively harmless as the chief utility of an invisible zipper is to keep the zipper teeth out of sight. So diminished is the zipper pull; it only takes a keen eye to notice it, only at a close-up range.
As you may have presumed, the sewing technique of an invisible zipper is different from regular zippers; even the zipper tape, in and of itself, is uniquely designed.
The invisible zipper is first sewn into the garment before sewing the seams; this effectively rules out the need for topstitching the zipper in question.
How Do You Sew an Invisible Zipper With a Regular Foot?
Commonly, many sewing machines do not come with an invisible zipper foot; they only come with a regular zipper foot. So, how do you sew an invisible zipper with a regular zipper foot? You may wonder… It turns out it’s a simple task. You only have to follow the steps I’ll highlight below for impressive outcomes.
First, you need the following items for the undertaking mentioned above: pins, a marker, a ruler (0r a tape measure), and a regular zipper foot.
Take your fabric and iron it flat so the surface of the entire fabric is even. Use fabric markers or pins to mark the edges where you want the zipper to end. Marking the top edges is essential for lining up the fabric pieces accurately.
For the convenience of the sewing process, take an iron box, set it to a very low heat setting, and press it along the zipper teeth to open up the zipper teeth and flatten it.
Iron with the zipper undone/unzipped. The above statement is an important preliminary that will enable you to sew smoothly, and the zipper teeth won’t get in the way of the needle.
With the zipper still unzipped down to the stopper, place it on the fabric with the right side of the zipper coil on the right side of your workpiece and pin.
Take your workpiece to the machine and sew; use a matching thread with the right thickness to avoid discoloring the fabric and bulking up the seams.
Hook the regular zipper foot in place and position the zipper teeth appropriately under the foot, i.e., the left strip of the zipper tape under the foot’s left groove or the right strip under the right groove.
Sew down along the tape with the needle as close as possible to the zipper teeth. Remember to remove the pins as you stitch and when you get to the stopper, do a backstitch to keep the stitching secure.
Follow the same steps for the second strip of the zipper tape. Remember to change the clamping side of the zipper foot, i.e., if you are stitching the right strip, clamp the right side of the zipper foot so that the needle sews through the right groove of the zipper foot.
The last and equally important bit of this project involves finishing off the seams:
Unclamp the zipper foot and install your regular presser foot for this part of the project. Pull the zipper tail out of the way and stitch the fabric pieces together; sew along your initial stitch line, right after the backstitch, to the end of the fabric.
What Is the Difference Between a Zipper Foot and an Invisible Zipper Foot?
In this section, I will contrast a zipper foot with an invisible zipper foot. The zipper foot is also known as the regular zipper foot or the standard zipper foot; most machines come with this foot.
The invisible zipper foot is relatively new and is particularly made for inserting invisible zippers. The two feet, as mentioned in the subheading above, differ in many ways based broadly on structure/design and functionality as discussed below:
The invisible zipper foot has a hole on its center front through which the sewing needle passes to produce centered stitching; the zipper foot lacks a hole on the center front and has an extension in front instead.
The invisible zipper foot has two grooves on its underside; the zipper coil runs through these grooves, making the needle stitch as close to the zipper teeth as it gets.
On the other hand, the standard zipper foot has two notches on both sides of the foot (right and left sides); these notches enable you to sew close to the edge of your workpiece.
The invisible zipper foot is attached only one way on the foot holder of the machine for a centered stitch, while the zipper foot is clamped on the machine in two different ways, so the needle is on top of either the left notch or the right notch of the foot.
The invisible zipper foot is exclusively meant for installing invisible zippers, for which it’s second to none. The regular zipper foot is used for installing zippers, inserting cording, inserting piping, and stitch along a more bulky fabric on one side than the other.
Can You Hand Sew an Invisible Zipper?
It’s often easier and more efficient to sew an invisible zipper, and anything really, using a machine.
But what happens, especially in the course of a pandemic, when everybody is holed up in the safety of their houses? And if you happen to be a sewer, what happens when your machine is broken down, and you want to insert an invisible zipper?
You may contemplate using your hands without the aid of your machine! Can you hand sew an invisible zipper?
It’s quite possible! Given that hand stitching preceded machine stitching, the former used to be the absolute way of life in the stitching realms.
Everything from invisible zippers to buttons to garments and quilts was hand-stitched. To date, hand stitching has remained relatively popular worldwide and is even a mainstay in some quarters.
Follow my lead as I guide you on how to hand sew an invisible zipper in the subsequent account.
How to Hand Sew an Invisible Zipper
Assemble the following materials in readiness for the task in question: iron box, invisible zipper tape, pins, sewing needle and thread, and the fabric/workpiece.
Unzip your zipper tape and use the iron box to open up the rolled back teeth; this makes it easier for unimpeded stitching. Be keen to set the iron box to very low heating to avoid melting and effectively damaging the zipper teeth.
After pressing the teeth flat, don’t zip up the zipper as they will roll back up. Lay the zipper tape on the fabric in such a way that the right side of the zipper tape faces the right side of the fabric; be keen to ensure the tape aligns with the fabric edges.
Once the zipper tape is aligned, insert pins to keep it in place or do a baste stitch; pin all the way to the zipper opening of the garment.
Your workpiece is now ready for hand sewing, use a thread that blends in with your zipper fabric and make sure the thread is knotted at its end.
Every invisible zipper tape comes with a groove that runs alongside the zipper teeth; this groove is strategically located to serve as a guide upon which you will stitch.
Sew using back stitches along the zipper to make it strongly attached; remove the pins one each time your needle gets close enough to a pin.
Typically, invisible zippers are longer than zipper openings on the garment, so your stitching should proceed past the opening. Sew only through the seam allowance and when you get to the end, tie a knot and cut off the thread.
You’ve completed one side of the zipper tape! Before sewing in the other strap, do as follows::
Close the zipper up to the zipper opening, then stretch out the loose strap of the zipper tape on the garment. Juxtapose with the stitched side to confirm whether they are evened out in length; if so, pin the unsewn side in place or do a baste stitch.
Then follow the same stitching procedure for the stitched strap to sew in the second strap of the zipper tape. You’re almost done! 99% complete, to put it into perspective.
The only part left is the loosely-hanging bottom part of your zipper tape; solution? Sew it into the seam allowance of the garment so it won’t swing around inside the garment.
Your invisible zipper is done, and you can zip up and unzip to test out whether it’s up to scratch.
How Do You Sew an Invisible Zipper Into a Cushion?
Take the fabric pieces of your cushion and lay them side by side. Mark the bottom of each fabric using a fabric marker or a pencil and cap off these edges with a zigzag stitch to secure the flailing end of the fabric.
Lay out the pieces with the right sides facing upward and the bottom edges (where the zipper is installed) facing each other. Mark 2 inches from the ends of the sewing edges of each piece, and mark their centers as well; mark the zipper tape in alignment with these marks.
Begin by clamping the zipper foot onto your machine. Lay the zipper tape on one of the fabrics with the right sides facing each other; make sure the marks on the tape and the marks on the fabric are in perfect alignment.
Do a basting stitch along the zipper tape to secure it in position; do not baste in the groove of the zipper tape, as that is the point where you’ll do the actual stitching.
Other than basting stitching, you can opt for pins to do preliminary securing of the zipper position; the main point is holding the zipper tape in position in readiness for the subsequent stitching.
The zipper tape is now ready for actual sewing! Use the marks made at the top, middle, and bottom of the fabric as your start and stopping guides when stitching, and do a back tack at the beginning and at the end of your fabric to fasten the stitch. Zip up your tape and you’ve completed one side of the zipper tape.
Follow the steps I’ve highlighted above to sew in the other half of the zipper tape onto the second fabric piece. You’re done with the major part of the invisible zipper installation and only pending the finishing touches.
Finishing off the Seams
Now that your zipper is done, you don’t need the zipper foot for this part; swap the zipper foot with a regular foot. To begin, fold your workpiece with the right sides of the pillow facing each other.
Pull the loosely-hanging zipper tape out of the way and feel for the point where you started or stopped stitching using your fingers; stick a pin at this point to attach the seams. Repeat the latter procedure for the other end of your fabric. Proceed to pin the other unsewn corners of your cushion.
At the point where you started/stopped stitching, as mentioned above, do a few strong back tacks, then downward and stop when almost at the edge of the fabric. Sew all around the fabric to close up the cushion borders.
When you get to the other end of the zipper, again pull the loosely hanging zipper tape out of the way, feel for the starting/stopping point, and stitch up to this point (backstitch on the start/stop point to make the attachment stronger).
That’s it, easy peasy! You can now check out your project by turning it right side out and pull the zipper up and down to test its integrity.
Is My Machine Low or High Shank?
Shank height is the distance between the thumbscrew and the bed/floor or the sewing machine! How do you tell if your sewing machine is low shank or high shank? Lots of sewers and quilters, especially in the beginner stages, face this challenge.
The trick lies in the measurements: low shank machines measure half an inch from the center of the thumbscrew to the bed. High shank machines measure an inch from the thumbscrew center to the bed.
Take note that these measurements have to be taken with the down position. Simply use a ruler to take measurements.
Knowledge of your shank type is handy mostly for individuals who machine-quilt with rulers.
High Shank vs. Low Shank Rulers for Quilting
Quilting rulers are specially made to enable you to make quilt designs and consistent patterns on your fabric; the patterns are difficult to do with free hands.
There are different designs and shapes of rulers for quilting; they are all collectively termed rulers, but not all of them fit the typical straight ruler, as you may imagine.
A broad categorization of quilting rulers is low shank vs. high shank rulers based on your machine shank. The difference, again, is based on measurements: high shank rulers measure a quarter-inch thick while low shank rulers measure an eighth inch thick.
Using the right ruler for your machine is highly convenient as it prevents your needle from breaking and enables you to produce patterns as exact as the ruler design.
Can You Cut an Invisible Zipper?
So you need a shorter zipper tape that can fit well into your fabric, yet you have a long invisible zipper! What do you do? Should you purchase a new zipper, or should you just cut the long zipper and proceed to sew in your invisible zipper?
Well, you can cut an invisible zipper! While it is good practice to always buy the right zipper tape for your fabric, some instances may call for you to shorten a long zipper tape.
For example, if you find yourself in a situation where the much needed shorter zipper is out of stock or if a client wants a custom-made zipper project, it is necessary to cut the long zipper tape. It seems like a challenging task, but it is surprisingly easy to shorten your invisible zipper, and it takes only a few minutes.
How to Shorten an Invisible Zipper Foot
Start by measuring the length of your invisible zipper; the length of a zipper is defined by the length of the zipper teeth only; do not include the fabric that extends beyond the zipper teeth in your measurements.
Measure using a tape measure or a ruler. Measure to your desired length and mark either side of the zipper teeth using chalk, pencil, or an erasable marker.
Then do a bar tack stitch on your mark; when using a sewing machine, set the machine to a zigzag stitch for the bar-tack. You can also hand-sew a bar tack stitch if you wish, but using a machine is obviously faster and more accurate.
For the sewing machine, set your stitch width to 6mm so it can cover both sides of the zipper teeth; set the stitch length to the lowest possible, i.e., 0.2mm for most machines.
Setting the lowest possible stitch length ensures the fabric stays in place; therefore, the bar-tack is concentrated on the mark. Incidentally, use a thread that matches your fabric/garment color, so the stitches are invisible.
Take a pair of scissors and cut off the zipper a few inches, presumably 1 inch, below the bar-tack; most zipper teeth are made of plastic, so an ordinary pair of scissors will make do for the cut. If you are handling metallic teeth, use heavy-duty pair of scissors.
Do You Need a Zipper Foot to Sew a Zipper?
Zipper feet are the best for sewing in zippers, but it’s not etched in concrete that you have to use a zipper foot for this task. If you don’t have quick access to a zipper foot, a presser foot will do the trick; you’ll only need to be a lot keener, and it’ll take a little longer.
Presser feet do not glide smoothly along zipper teeth, so the first challenge is keeping the zipper tape moving along the machine; you have to help it through by pushing manually.
The second challenge is the presser foot does not stitch as close enough to the teeth as a zipper foot would; this eats up into the seam allowance, and your work won’t look as neat as you would want.
A reminder of the adage: necessity is the mother of invention! The challenges posed by presser feet when sewing zippers necessitated the invention of zipper feet.
I, therefore, urge you to use the zipper foot for sewing zippers as it’s exclusively made for this purpose. In other words, a zipper foot makes your life a lot easier than any other foot in the context of sewing zippers.
Can You Sew Over a Zipper?
You can sew over a zipper, but it’s a delicate undertaking that needs total concentration. Use the machine’s handwheel and avoid the foot pedal; the handwheel gives you more control so the zipper won’t get damaged.
For advanced machines that don’t have handwheels, sew over the zipper at a slowed tempo for improved accuracy. Sewing faster in this context can break the needle, especially when sewing over metallic zippers.
As always, make use of your pins to hold down your zipper at a fixed position before beginning the actual sewing; an alternative to pins is doing a basting stitch.
Remember to sew over your zipper with the zipper teeth closed and when almost done, be careful not to hit the zipper pull with the needle as it can break the needle or irreversibly damage the zipper pull itself.
Conclusion: Can You Sew an Invisible Zipper With a Regular Zipper Foot?
As a sewer, it’s important to be versatile and have a skill set of abilities when it comes to manipulating the machine and the needle, the sewing whisperer as it were.
Being accustomed to operating under different circumstances enables you to wriggle out with ease from any situation that might present itself. For instance, if you don’t have some sewing paraphernalia like an invisible zipper foot, can you sew an invisible zipper with a regular zipper foot?
If your machine breaks down, can you hand sew an invisible zipper? If your zipper tape is longer than you want, can you cut an invisible zipper?
I can’t mention all the situations that may arise; otherwise, this article would be longer than the Nile. But I’ve touched on some of the most common cases, and the solutions pretty much apply across the board.
Just to reiterate, it’s best practice to use an invisible zipper foot to sew an invisible zipper. I only recommend using a regular zipper foot for the same task when faced with exigencies; purchase the right implements afterward.
The right instruments make the job easier, make it more efficient, and saves on time; all these, collectively, improve productivity.